chenille

Chenille ni ubwoko bwimyenda, cyangwa umwenda ubikoze.Chenille nijambo ryigifaransa ryitwa caterpillar ubwoya bwarwo bugomba kuba busa.

Amateka
Nk’uko abahanga mu by'amateka y’imyenda babivuga, ubudodo bwo mu bwoko bwa chenille ni ibintu byavumbuwe vuba aha, guhera mu kinyejana cya 18 kandi bikekwa ko byaturutse mu Bufaransa.Tekinike yumwimerere yarimo kuboha umwenda "leno" hanyuma ukata umwenda mo imirongo kugirango ukore umugozi wa chenille.

Alexander Buchanan, umuyobozi mu ruganda rukora imyenda rwa Paisley, ashimirwa kuba yarazanye imyenda ya chenille muri Scotland mu myaka ya za 1830.Hano yateguye uburyo bwo kuboha shawls fuzzy.Utudodo twubwoya bwamabara yaboshywe hamwe mubiringiti hanyuma bicamo ibice.Bavuwe no gushyushya imizingo kugirango bakore frizz.Ibi byaje kuvamo umwenda woroshye cyane, wijimye witwa chenille.Undi uruganda rukora shawl rwa Paisley yagiye kurushaho guteza imbere tekinike.James Templeton na William Quiglay bakoze kugirango batunganyirize iki gikorwa mugihe bakoraga ku kwigana ibitambaro byo mu burasirazuba. Uburyo bukomeye bwakorwaga kubyara kubyara byikora, ariko ubwo buhanga bwakemuye icyo kibazo.Aba bagabo batanze inzira ariko Quiglay yahise agurisha inyungu ze.Templeton yahise ikingura uruganda rwitapi rwiza (James Templeton & Co) rwabaye uruganda rukora itapi mu kinyejana cya 19 na 20.

Mu myaka ya za 1920 na 1930, Dalton mu majyaruguru y'uburengerazuba bwa Jeworujiya yabaye umurwa mukuru w’igitanda cyo kuryamaho muri Amerika bitewe na Catherine Evans (nyuma wongeyeho Whitener) wabanje kubyutsa ubuhanga bw’ubukorikori mu myaka ya 1890.Ibitanda byuzuye intoki bifite isura ishushanyije byarushijeho gukundwa kandi byiswe "chenille" ijambo ryakomeje. Hamwe no kwamamaza neza, ibitanda bya chenille byagaragaye mububiko bw’ibiro by’umujyi kandi gutobora byaje kuba ingenzi mu iterambere ry’ubukungu bwa Jeworujiya y'Amajyaruguru, bikomeza imiryango ndetse no mubihe byo kwiheba. Abacuruzi bateguye "gukwirakwiza amazu" aho ibicuruzwa bivanze mumirima byarangiye bakoresheje gukaraba ubushyuhe kugirango bagabanye kandi "bashire" umwenda.Amakamyo yagejeje impapuro zishushanyijeho kashe hamwe nudusiga twa chenille mumiryango kugirango tuyifate mbere yo gusubira kwishyura tuferi no gukusanya ibyarangiye kugirango birangire.Kugeza magingo aya, abaterankunga hirya no hino muri leta ntibaremye ibitanda gusa ahubwo bashizeho umusego w umusego hamwe na matelas bakabigurisha kumuhanda. Uwa mbere winjije miliyoni y'amadolari mu bucuruzi bwo kuryama, ni umunyamerika wa Dalton, BJ Bandy abifashijwemo na we. umugore, Dicksie Bradley Bandy, mu mpera za 1930, gukurikirwa nabandi benshi.

Mu myaka ya za 1930, imikoreshereze yimyenda yatobotse yabaye iyifuzwa cyane mu guta, matelas, ibitanda byo kuryamaho, hamwe nigitambara, ariko bitaragera, imyenda.Ibigo byahinduye imirimo ivuye mu murima bijya mu nganda kugira ngo bigenzurwe neza kandi bitange umusaruro, bashishikarizwa ko bagomba gukurikirana umusaruro ukomatanyije bakoresheje umushahara n’amasaha y’ikigo cy’igihugu gishinzwe kugarura ubuzima kode yo kuryamaho.Hamwe nicyerekezo cyo gukanika imashini, imashini zidoda zahujwe zikoreshwa mugushyiramo imyenda yazamuye.

Chenille yamenyekanye cyane kumyambarire hamwe nubucuruzi bwubucuruzi muri za 1970.

Ibipimo by’umusaruro w’inganda ntabwo byashyizweho kugeza mu myaka ya za 90, igihe hashyirwaho ishyirahamwe mpuzamahanga ry’inganda za Chenille (CIMA) rifite intego yo kunoza no guteza imbere ibikorwa by’inganda. Kuva mu myaka ya za 70 buri mutwe w’imashini yakoraga imyenda ibiri ya chenille neza kuri bobbins, imashini yashoboraga ufite imitambiko irenga 100 (imitwe 50).Giesse yari umwe mubakora imashini za mbere zikomeye.Giesse yaguze isosiyete ya Iteco mu 2010 ihuza chenille yarn igenzura ubuziranenge bwa mashini yabo.Imyenda ya Chenille nayo ikoreshwa kenshi mu ikoti rya Letterman izwi kandi nka “varsity jackets”, ku nyuguti zanditse.

Ibisobanuro
Urudodo rwa chenille rukozwe mugushira uburebure buke bwurudodo, rwitwa "ikirundo", hagati y "imigozi ibiri" hanyuma ugahinduranya umugozi hamwe.Impande zibi birundo noneho zihagarara kumpande iburyo yintambara yintambara, bigaha chenille ubworoherane bwayo nuburyo busa.Chenille izasa itandukanye mu cyerekezo kimwe ugereranije n'indi, nkuko fibre ifata urumuri ukundi.Chenille irashobora kugaragara iridescent idakoresheje fibre ya Iridescence.Ubudodo busanzwe bukorwa mu ipamba, ariko burashobora kandi gukorwa hifashishijwe acrylic, rayon na olefin.

Gutezimbere
Kimwe mubibazo byimyenda ya chenille nuko tufe ishobora gukora idakabije kandi igakora imyenda yambaye ubusa.Ibi byakemuwe no gukoresha nylon nkeya yashonze hagati yintambara hanyuma hanyuma autoclaving (steaming) hanks yintambara kugirango ushire ikirundo mumwanya.

Mu guswera
Kuva mu mpera z'imyaka ya za 90, chenille yagaragaye mu kuboha imyenda myinshi, imbuga cyangwa kurangiza.Nka rudodo, ni sintetike yoroshye, yuzuye amababa iyo idoze kumyenda yinyuma, itanga isura ya velveti, izwi kandi kwigana cyangwa "faux chenille".Ingofero nyayo ya chenille ikozwe hifashishijwe ibishishwa byimyenda ya chenille muburyo butandukanye no mumabara, hamwe cyangwa "kudatobora" adoda.

Ingaruka ya chenille mugukata ingendo, yahinduwe na cilters kugirango igihugu gisanzwe.Igitanda gifite icyo bita "chenille kurangiza" kizwi nka "igitambara cyo kwambara" cyangwa, "igitambaro cyo gutemagura" bitewe nubudodo bwagaragaye bwibishishwa hamwe nuburyo bwo kubigeraho.Imirongo y'ipamba yoroshye ikubitirwa hamwe mubice cyangwa kubudodo no kudoda hamwe ubugari, mbisi mbisi imbere.Izi mpande noneho ziracibwa, cyangwa zigabanywa, kugirango habeho ingaruka zishaje, yoroshye, "chenille".

Kwitaho
Imyenda myinshi ya chenille igomba gukama.Niba intoki cyangwa imashini yogejwe, igomba gukama imashini ikoresheje ubushyuhe buke, cyangwa nkumwenda uremereye, wumye kugirango wirinde kurambura, ntuzigera umanikwa.